I recently installed a DCC chip into a Kato NW2 switcher.  Due to the construction of the model I had to use a N scale decoder from NCC (this is the fourth chip I have used of theirs with excellent results so far).  This is not a project I would recommend for a first install as it required milling out a section of the frame in order to place the decoder.

Notice in this picture the two black lines on the frame, these are to show the lines I milled between to create room for the decoder.  Also look at the cab and notice the two brass tabs coming down at the back, these are pickups for the LED and had to be shortened in order to solder the wires from the decoder onto.  For the front LED I scraped the portion of printed circuit board from each lead and then soldered the decoder wires onto each side.  Note that the LED will not work if you get the wires onto the wrong one (something I figured out the hard way).

Here is the picture of the chip installed into the frame, with only the motor leads in place:

This picture shows the shell in place after the decoder has been installed, note that the leads for the rear LED have not been soldered to the tabs on  the cab, and also that I later moved the pick-up wires (red and black) down to the pickup for the trucks.

I was finally able to get the decoder to work correctly, along with both the front and rear LEDs.  This has been one of the most difficult decoder installs that I have done to date – and I welcome any questions about this install.  I will do a full review of the model once I have installed all of the detail parts on the model.

Once you have completed building the tool it is now time to use it.  To properly use the tool you put the car onto the track (the re-railer makes it much easier).  Hook the coupler into the Kadee tool and look at the markings at the opposite end of the car.  Look at the mark closest to the end of the car to find your weight, it will be the number marked plus 1 ounce.

For example, this uncompleted InterMountain car reaches the line marked 3 1/2, so I will need to make sure that the car weighs in at 4 1/2 ounces.

I measure my cars on a jewler’s scale, but any scale capable of measuring in ounces can be used.

Here is a picture showing the weights (available from Micro-Mark)  installed into the car, as you can see I needed to add 2 ounces.

One of the most important things you can do to make sure that your model railroad cars run properly is to make sure that they have been weighted to meet NMRA standards.  This helps in making sure that the cars will not jump off of the track when pulling a long train.  It also assists in making sure that your locomotives will be able to pull the correct amount of cars, especially when you have a grade on your layout.

One of the easiest ways to measure cars to figure out their correct weight is to build a tool.

I built this tool by using a scrap of wood, some track and a Kadee coupler height tool.  I also used some roadbed, but it is not necessary.   I used a scrap of wood about 3/4 of an inch larger than the width of the track and fastened the track to it using normal track nails.  The re-railer makes it much easier to set cars on the track.  After assembling the Kadee coupler height tool, I screwed it into place at one end of the track.  The next step is draw a line even with the center of the coupler on the Kadee tool next to the track.  Use a measuring tape (or ruler) and measure off 1 inch increments, and mark as you see in the picture.

In my next post I will describe how to use the tool to figure out the correct weight for the car being measured.

For the ice loading dock for the Union Ice Company kit I followed the directions for the most part.  The only change that I made was to make the bracing the same for middle uprights as the ends.  I did not like how the small supports recommended in the kit looked after building the first upright.  I used additional scale lumber from Northwest Short Line to provide the needed material.

The second picture shows how I used a cork board and pins to build the ice loading platform right on top of the instructions, which are covered by wax paper.  This technique allowed me to use the pins to secure each piece into the correct place while I was waiting for the glue to dry.

This picture shows how used bottles of paint as weight to glue the completed platform into place.

I have continued the construction of the Union Ice Company, learning many things along the way.  This kit has been especially interesting due to the fact that it is built using cardstock for the major components.  One of the most important things that I have learned through building this kit is the importance of making sure that each component is glued to others while being as square as possible.

Here is a view showing the interior walls of the kit for the office area:

And here is the back view of the building after I completed construction of the walls, notice the right side of the picture shows the cooling tower:

In the next post I will cover the construction of the loading platform for the reefer cars.