In previous posts I have talked about using a cork board when building certain model parts, especially docks and things of that nature.  I decided that I should share some of the things that I have learned in using this.

The chief advantage of using a cork board is that you can place the templates included in the model (or drawn by you as the case might be) onto the cork and cover it with a sheet of wax paper.  The section of the model can then be built right over the template without damaging it, at the same time the cork allows pins to be used to hold parts into place.

Here is a picture showing the first step in building an extension to my ice dock for the Union Ice Co. kit:

As you can see in the picture I use the pins to keep the parts in alignment until the glue has dried.  This allows me to use a slower drying glue, such as the Elmer’s Wood Glue – which gives me plenty of time to make sure that the parts are aligned to match the template.

The next step was to lay out the stringers, on which the frames will be glued.  I also added the cross bracing to one side at the same time, after allowing them time to dry I can use a hobby knife or razor blade to remove the frames from the wax paper after I have removed the pins.  The wax paper makes this relatively easy.  I then glue the cross bracing on the opposite side.

The next step is to glue the frames into place on the stringers, using pins as needed for support.

Once the part has dried I can remove the completed assembly from the cork board by removing all of the pins and then using the hobby knife as needed.  The final cross bracing and deck can then be put on.

After adding the long expanse of the ice dock on the Union Ice Company kit, I decided that I was going to extend the dock in a “T” shape to meet the building instead of just installing a ramp for the ice.  I used the template for the original ice dock to create the needed parts, though I ended up using slightly smaller material (what the hobby shop had available).

Here is a picture showing the end of the existing dock, which I added a Plastruct stairway and railings as the wood looked too “cluncky”.

I then assembled the filler piece for the dock on the cork board and inserted the completed piece into the gap, using a bottle of paint as a weight to assist in gluing the piece into place:

Here is the completed addition to the dock, waiting for the ice ramp and railings to be installed.  My logic behind making the change in the ice dock was to make it so that if a block was stuck, the workers would be able to walk over and fix the problem without needing a ladder.  Also I added a small ladder going up from that level to the shorter section of the roof, which I will show in a later post.

At the San Leandro Historic Railway Society’s winter show I won a Kato NW2 switcher from the raffle.  I am happy to say that this model turned out pretty well, and runs nicely on DC.  Unfortunately is was very difficult to install the decoder for DCC in this model, as no room is available inside of the model.  I was forced to mill out a portion of the weight under the hood to allow enough room for a N scale decoder from NCE. On the plus side the Kadee couplers I used to replace the horn-hook style couplers included with the model slid right into the existing pockets once I assembled them.

Two different options for the exhaust stacks were included, indicating the phase one and phase two (as built).  The detail parts were crisply molded and easily installed, with only minor enlarging of a couple of holes.  The directions were very clear and used diagrams of both the model and the parts sprues indicating the location for each part.  For the smaller parts duplicates were included in case of damage.  The directions stated that these parts could be just snapped into place, however I used Zap-A-Gap to make sure they would not fall out.  The lights use yellow LED’s, which I admit look a little strange – and I will be changing them out eventually.

Other than the difficulty in installing a DCC decoder into this model I would have given it top marks.

• Overall: 7
• Provided parts: 10
• Instructions: 10
• Value for price: 7
• Overall quality: 8

This kit is the first one from InterMountain Railway Company I have built.  Having only built simple Athearn kits before I was pleasantly surprised to open the box and find a model of so many parts, all of which were crisply molded.  The sprues contained no flash  The multi-page assembly instructions and the included exploded diagrams made for easy identification and installation location of parts.

On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being worst, I would rate this kit as follows:

• Overall: 9
• Provided parts: 10
• Instructions: 10
• Value for price: 9
• Overall quality: 8

This was a fun kit, would not recommend for a first build due to the fragile parts, but an excellent kit for all the details included.

As I was on vacation over the Christmas holiday I did not have any time to work on any of my projects so I decided to post some pictures I took at the San Leandro Historic Railway Society while running some of my trains.

This picture shows my F7 A&B units from Proto 2000.  They were the first two models that I installed NCE decoders into, a really easy process as it was just a matter of removing the existing DC chip and plugging in the new decoder.

This picture shows a view of the same train heading across the top of the small helix heading towards Antelope.  Notice the weathered look of the boxcars and gondola in the picture.  This was done by drybrushing two different colors of paint, and then using pastel chalks to complete the affect.

Happy Holidays from RailroadRedux.