Railroad Redux » Tool

Product Review: Micro-Mark magnetic gluing jig

Dom — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 15:46:12 +0000

Another tool that I recently acquired was the magnetic gluing jig from Micro-Mark. This is a very simple tool in that it is just a metal plate with edges bent up at 90 degrees, and some magnets for holding pieces. Using magnets this way allows infinite variation in how they are placed to hold pieces next to each other.

I used this jig in the construction of a recent plastic model. Since I was using a solvent type glue, this jig allowed me to assemble the parts and hold them in place before applying the glue.

For helping in creating square corners this tool was excellent.

Overall: 9.5
Instructions: 10
Value for price: 10
Overall quality: 9

Using a Cork Board in building models

Dom — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 14:01:31 +0000

In previous posts I have talked about using a cork board when building certain model parts, especially docks and things of that nature. I decided that I should share some of the things that I have learned in using this.

The chief advantage of using a cork board is that you can place the templates included in the model (or drawn by you as the case might be) onto the cork and cover it with a sheet of wax paper. The section of the model can then be built right over the template without damaging it, at the same time the cork allows pins to be used to hold parts into place.

Here is a picture showing the first step in building an extension to my ice dock for the Union Ice Co. kit:

As you can see in the picture I use the pins to keep the parts in alignment until the glue has dried. This allows me to use a slower drying glue, such as the Elmer’s Wood Glue – which gives me plenty of time to make sure that the parts are aligned to match the template.

The next step was to lay out the stringers, on which the frames will be glued. I also added the cross bracing to one side at the same time, after allowing them time to dry I can use a hobby knife or razor blade to remove the frames from the wax paper after I have removed the pins. The wax paper makes this relatively easy. I then glue the cross bracing on the opposite side.

The next step is to glue the frames into place on the stringers, using pins as needed for support.

Once the part has dried I can remove the completed assembly from the cork board by removing all of the pins and then using the hobby knife as needed. The final cross bracing and deck can then be put on.

Using the Weighting tool

Dom — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 07:11:04 +0000

Once you have completed building the tool it is now time to use it. To properly use the tool you put the car onto the track (the re-railer makes it much easier). Hook the coupler into the Kadee tool and look at the markings at the opposite end of the car. Look at the mark closest to the end of the car to find your weight, it will be the number marked plus 1 ounce.

For example, this uncompleted InterMountain car reaches the line marked 3 1/2, so I will need to make sure that the car weighs in at 4 1/2 ounces.

I measure my cars on a jewler’s scale, but any scale capable of measuring in ounces can be used.

Here is a picture showing the weights (available from Micro-Mark) installed into the car, as you can see I needed to add 2 ounces.

Properly Weighting Railroad Cars

Dom — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 06:16:27 +0000

One of the most important things you can do to make sure that your model railroad cars run properly is to make sure that they have been weighted to meet NMRA standards. This helps in making sure that the cars will not jump off of the track when pulling a long train. It also assists in making sure that your locomotives will be able to pull the correct amount of cars, especially when you have a grade on your layout.

One of the easiest ways to measure cars to figure out their correct weight is to build a tool.

I built this tool by using a scrap of wood, some track and a Kadee coupler height tool. I also used some roadbed, but it is not necessary. I used a scrap of wood about 3/4 of an inch larger than the width of the track and fastened the track to it using normal track nails. The re-railer makes it much easier to set cars on the track. After assembling the Kadee coupler height tool, I screwed it into place at one end of the track. The next step is draw a line even with the center of the coupler on the Kadee tool next to the track. Use a measuring tape (or ruler) and measure off 1 inch increments, and mark as you see in the picture.

In my next post I will describe how to use the tool to figure out the correct weight for the car being measured.