Due to an issue with a method of securing a building I tried I knocked the dock off of the Champion Packing Co. model.  I decided that it would be easier to ballast it into place before reattaching the building.  I used the template to make sure that the dock was positioned properly before using a bit of caulking to secure the dock into place.

I first dry-brushed the ties to weather them a little.  I then set the building in place (I didn’t glue it to the dock as I have a bit more work to do on the building, such as lighting) and spread the ballast with a brush.  I found that a soft brush had the best results for me, though a foam brush did help with the rough in.

Following tips from multiple sources I soaked the ballast by the ties with rubbing alcohol before using the landscape cement.  I found that, as promised, it helped to “suck” the glue into the spaces between the ties and help with the spreading of the glue.  I found out the hard way that you need to make sure that the shape is exactly as you want it before applying either the alcohol or glue, although it was fairly easy to repair those spots with a light sprinkle of more ballast and more glue.

Waiting for the glue to dry before starting to add bushes was annoying (overnight – had to wait).

I added on the lettering using dry transfer decals.  After adding the small lettering I decided to redo it in another location.  I find that is one of the nice things about dry transfer is that they are relatively easy to remove if you decide against them.  I did this by using the tip of a hobby knife to scratch them off.

I then added all of the final details, using grab-irons from a detail upgrade kit available for this model.  I decided that buying the upgrade kit would produce better results than trying to make them myself.  For the next kit I will think twice about them, because while they certainly were convenient it would be easy to make them.  Included in this detail kit was an etched metal kit for the end ladders.  This would have been a very good looking upgrade, however I found that my soldering skills were not up to the task – they will make good additions to a scrap pile some where on the layout.

After final touch-up, I sprayed the model with dull-cote.  I didn’t bother masking the windows as I did not put an interior in it.  I then used chalk to weather the caboose.

I have to thank my wife for the beautiful picture of the completed project taken on my “work in progress” layout.

I saw a technique for fastening track to roadbed using silicone in multiple places, including the Model Railroader Magazine website.  I decided to try this, partly because I could not find any track nails.  Since my major purpose in building this module is to try various techniques, I decided this would be a perfect opportunity.

I used blue painter’s tape to mask the area under each switch so that it would move freely.  Before I added the silicone I drilled a hole down through the roadbed and the plywood in case I decide to install a switch machine at a later date.  After masking it off I spread the silicone over the track bed.

I started with the switches as I will be using flex track for the straight sections.  To keep the track in place while the silicone set I used pins.  I found that using silicone to fasten the track in place was quite a bit slower than using track nails.  Another important thing I discovered was the importance of keeping the layer of silicone very thin, as a thick layer would squeeze up through the ties.

I started with the switches when laying out the roadbed because I intend to use flex-track for all of the remaining track.  I think that this will provide the best look for my branchline.

While cutting the cork, I found that the easiest way was to set the piece against the edge it needed to match and make my first cut.  I then used a steel ruler to guide my knife to complete the cut.

One of the main things that this picture shows is that I used the cork roadbed only for the mainline.  I intend to create a ramp to make the change from roadbed to table top.  This will help in showing the difference between the mainline and the spurs.

It took me a long time to decide upon a track plan for my module.  Part of the problem was that I was using the table as a work platform when using the airbrush.  After building the Walther’s Champion Packing Co. I decided that some of the industries around the meat packing industry would be the best for my module.  This should allow me to display some of the kits I have built recently, while at the same time giving me something that would be fun to switch.

After planning and laying out the switch locations I soldered the switches together at each point.  I intend to cut the gaps after completely securing the track in place.

I then started to glue the cork roadbed into place using silicone.  I found that it took only setting the cork into place to be able to follow gentle curves.  For a little bit sharper curve I had to use tacks to keep the cork at the correct radius.