I added on the lettering using dry transfer decals.  After adding the small lettering I decided to redo it in another location.  I find that is one of the nice things about dry transfer is that they are relatively easy to remove if you decide against them.  I did this by using the tip of a hobby knife to scratch them off.

I then added all of the final details, using grab-irons from a detail upgrade kit available for this model.  I decided that buying the upgrade kit would produce better results than trying to make them myself.  For the next kit I will think twice about them, because while they certainly were convenient it would be easy to make them.  Included in this detail kit was an etched metal kit for the end ladders.  This would have been a very good looking upgrade, however I found that my soldering skills were not up to the task – they will make good additions to a scrap pile some where on the layout.

After final touch-up, I sprayed the model with dull-cote.  I didn’t bother masking the windows as I did not put an interior in it.  I then used chalk to weather the caboose.

I have to thank my wife for the beautiful picture of the completed project taken on my “work in progress” layout.

I brush painted the various parts using Floquil paint.  This worked well on the wooden parts, but I should have sprayed it on the floor.  The outer roofing was really easy as it was basically a large sticker.    I really like the way it looks, when painted I think it will look like tar paper.  Using this outer covering helped me out on the cupola as it covered a crack that happened in the sub-roof as I was gluing it into place.

Also when building the cupola, I discovered that it was possible to position the laser-cut parts approximately where they were supposed to be, and then use an x-acto knife to do the final alignment.  The knife was also useful in pushing down the small parts to set them in place.

After installing the sheathing on the outside of the body, and assembling the cupola, I assembled the roof.  Again I was amazed at the precision of the parts and the limited prep-work they needed.

As you can see in the picture I had to improvise a little bit to hold the parts together while the glue was drying.

I had to improvise again when assembling the main portion of the roof.  In order to make the roof curve to match the frame I glued one side and then clamped it and glued the other side.  I tried using clamps at first, but they tended to shift parts around; using a nearby box of tools provided a flat surface and enough weight to hold the parts while the glue dried.

I picked up this kit because I wanted to try a laser cut wood kit that used peel and stick windows and doors.  My first impression upon opening this kit was the extreme detail and precision with which each part had been created.  The instruction manual was very clear and easy to understand, with very detailed expanded drawings demonstrating each step.

I assembled the inner skeleton using wood glue, the rest of the kit I used Zap-a-Gap to glue parts on it.

I was impressed that the siding was installed using the peel and stick method.  I found that an x-acto knife with a #10 blade was the best thing for removing the backing.  I was very impressed that each part required only minimal prep before assembly.

This picture shows another technique that I have found useful.  I spread out a sheet of sandpaper on my desk and use it when assembling wall sections.  It allows me to quickly true up and remove burrs from wall panels.