I have been insanely busy lately from work and school.  Here is what has helped to keep me sane:  the pipe and scrap steel car from the Backwoods Work Train.

This particular car took a lot of work, the amount of detail in this model is amazing.   After painting all of the parts that were supposed to be wood by dry-brushing various layers of brown, I used a fine detail brush to pick out individual parts with red green and silver. Rusting powders helped to create the look that a car such as this would have.

A car such as this would have been essential in keeping a small logging outfit running.  From these parts a “donkey doctor” would be able to repair almost anything.

This flat car was pretty easy to build as it is just a resin casting on a flat car.  I painted them separately so that I didn’t need to mask the deck.

I followed the directions listed in the construction manual for creating the deck.  One of the first steps I did before starting any of individual models was to stain all of the strip-wood included in the kit.  I divided it into three separate piles making sure that some of each length were in each.  I then soaked each pile into a different ratio of my India ink and alcohol mix.  I used my Chopper II (NorthWest Shortline) to quickly cut the strips to size, mixing the 3 colors up so that you get a random effect on the deck.

I finished this model with a light chalk weathering and sealed it with dull-cote.

The oil car was an interesting project due mostly to the amount of grime needed to make the car look right.

For the hose I used some left over wire from a decoder install.  In my opinion this worked a little bit better than the wire included in the kit.

The fun part was adding all of the grime.  I followed the suggestions in the instruction book (a 58 page wire bound book) and added drops of acrylic paint near the spout and dripped alcohol over it.  I did this with a couple different shades of black and then brushed a little rubber cement to add texture and shine for a fresh look.  I also used black weathering powder as a final step.

Varying the amount of shine on a model can really make certain details pop, and ad to the realism.  I usually spray the entire model with Dullcote and then brush on the gloss areas.

The sand car was a fun little kit to build and paint.  This car is a perfect demonstration of how the little details are what make the model stand out.

The figure is from Woodland Scenics, with a small amount of chalk to dirty his clothing.

The water-slide decals were easy to apply, the most important thing was to cut them very close to the lettering for the best fit.  To apply I first dip the decal in the water and then pull it out and set it aside.  While waiting for the glue to soak off the decal, I brush the area it will be applied with a decal softening solution.  About 20 seconds is all that is needed for the the decal to release from the backing.  I then pick up the decal and backing with a pair of tweezers and use a small brush to slide the decal onto the model.  Once I have the decal positioned where I want it using the brush, I brush a little bit more of the decal softening solution onto the decal.

I sprayed the model with dull-cote and then used chalk to weather the car.

I added the tar-paper roofing by cutting it into strips and gluing it on the roof using white glue.  This had the effect of creating some small wrinkles, but these added to the character of the building.  The Ski and 7up signs I attached with rubber cement, the rest I used white glue.

I attached all the details at the loading dock with Woodland Scenics’ Scenic Accent glue.  Following the directions on the bottle I brushed it onto each piece and waited until it had dried clear before sticking the part in place.  I actually used it after I applied the primer coat, which allowed me to use the glue to stick the part to my work surface for painting.  After the paint had dried I lifted the parts off the work surface and easily repositioned them in their final position.  I especially recommend using this glue with figures.

When I have found a place on my layout for this model (a section yet to be built) I will do some final weathering to make it fit into the scene.  For now this model is complete.