Once the paint had been successfully peeled I started construction of the feed store, though I must confess it seemed a little bit strange getting all the paint to peel before the building was even constructed.  I used Zap-A-Gap medium to glue all of the parts together, which worked pretty well.  On the next kit I think I will try some of the other blends to see if I can find something better.  Constant reference to the plans assisted in the placement of internal supports and correct identification of parts.  I assembled the main part of the building and the office as two separate parts.  This picture shows both sections with the floor installed and chalk weathered in the main building:

The weathering on the floor of the main section was made surprisingly easy with the use of pastel chalks, obtained from my local craft store.  I used a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper (test a couple of different grits to find what works best for you) and rubbed brown, black, gray, and red to create little piles of chalk.  I then used a fairly stiff brush and took random samples of the chalk and scrubbed it into the wood of the floor.  This created a well worn effect, which I sealed using Testors Dullcote after I had reached the desired amount of wear.  Notice how it brings out the detail of the cracks in the floor.  This techniques has many uses in weathering and will come back in multiple places on this build.

The first step, after drooling while looking at the box picture, is to unload the box and make sure that all of the parts are inside. Here is a picture of the contents of Fryxell Feed & Seed:

After verifying that all the pieces are accounted for, identify each of the pieces.  Carefully cut out the window and door openings – I found that multiple light cuts with an x-acto knife worked the best for me (an attempt with a small wood chisel led to splitting, the knife did not).  I used one of the window frames to verify the opening size and used a jeweler’s file to make adjustments as needed.

Once all of the window and door openings were cut out, I primed the walls inside and out.  After allowing time for the primer to dry I then brushed on a couple of splotches of rubber cement on each wall (outside only).  Make sure to get the cement on the areas that would be natural for peeling paint on a building, usining pictures of real buildings to help with locations.  After the cement has dried (I waited overnight, but an hour would most likely be enough) I painted the walls with the final color, using as many coats as needed.  You can see the cement from the shiny spots in the picture:The final step, after the topcoat has completely dried, is to use tape and stick it to the patches of rubber cement.  Pealing the tape off will take the outer layer with it creating the desired effect (repeat as needed for the desired effect).  I used blue painter’s tape, but have heard of people using duct tape.