I added on the lettering using dry transfer decals.  After adding the small lettering I decided to redo it in another location.  I find that is one of the nice things about dry transfer is that they are relatively easy to remove if you decide against them.  I did this by using the tip of a hobby knife to scratch them off.

I then added all of the final details, using grab-irons from a detail upgrade kit available for this model.  I decided that buying the upgrade kit would produce better results than trying to make them myself.  For the next kit I will think twice about them, because while they certainly were convenient it would be easy to make them.  Included in this detail kit was an etched metal kit for the end ladders.  This would have been a very good looking upgrade, however I found that my soldering skills were not up to the task – they will make good additions to a scrap pile some where on the layout.

After final touch-up, I sprayed the model with dull-cote.  I didn’t bother masking the windows as I did not put an interior in it.  I then used chalk to weather the caboose.

I have to thank my wife for the beautiful picture of the completed project taken on my “work in progress” layout.

I brush painted the various parts using Floquil paint.  This worked well on the wooden parts, but I should have sprayed it on the floor.  The outer roofing was really easy as it was basically a large sticker.    I really like the way it looks, when painted I think it will look like tar paper.  Using this outer covering helped me out on the cupola as it covered a crack that happened in the sub-roof as I was gluing it into place.

Also when building the cupola, I discovered that it was possible to position the laser-cut parts approximately where they were supposed to be, and then use an x-acto knife to do the final alignment.  The knife was also useful in pushing down the small parts to set them in place.

After installing the sheathing on the outside of the body, and assembling the cupola, I assembled the roof.  Again I was amazed at the precision of the parts and the limited prep-work they needed.

As you can see in the picture I had to improvise a little bit to hold the parts together while the glue was drying.

I had to improvise again when assembling the main portion of the roof.  In order to make the roof curve to match the frame I glued one side and then clamped it and glued the other side.  I tried using clamps at first, but they tended to shift parts around; using a nearby box of tools provided a flat surface and enough weight to hold the parts while the glue dried.

I picked up this kit because I wanted to try a laser cut wood kit that used peel and stick windows and doors.  My first impression upon opening this kit was the extreme detail and precision with which each part had been created.  The instruction manual was very clear and easy to understand, with very detailed expanded drawings demonstrating each step.

I assembled the inner skeleton using wood glue, the rest of the kit I used Zap-a-Gap to glue parts on it.

I was impressed that the siding was installed using the peel and stick method.  I found that an x-acto knife with a #10 blade was the best thing for removing the backing.  I was very impressed that each part required only minimal prep before assembly.

This picture shows another technique that I have found useful.  I spread out a sheet of sandpaper on my desk and use it when assembling wall sections.  It allows me to quickly true up and remove burrs from wall panels.

After installing the final section of the dock I cut out and assembled the railings on the cork board.  Once these had dried I glued them onto the edge of the dock using Elmer’s wood glue.  I then assembled the ramp leading down from the opening in the wall by using the provided scale lumber.

The next step was to fabricate the rest of the ice skid along the length of the dock.  Using more scale lumber I cut the pieces to length and glued directly on to the deck.  I created stops at either end using scrap pieces.  I set the blocks of “ice” on the skid to see how the final look will be.  If you look next to the opening in the wall under the cooling tower you will see where I added a ladder for roof access.

About the only thing left on this model is to glue the gravel on to the roof panels, and then weather the entire model, which I most likely won’t do until I place it on a layout or diorama.

In previous posts I have talked about using a cork board when building certain model parts, especially docks and things of that nature.  I decided that I should share some of the things that I have learned in using this.

The chief advantage of using a cork board is that you can place the templates included in the model (or drawn by you as the case might be) onto the cork and cover it with a sheet of wax paper.  The section of the model can then be built right over the template without damaging it, at the same time the cork allows pins to be used to hold parts into place.

Here is a picture showing the first step in building an extension to my ice dock for the Union Ice Co. kit:

As you can see in the picture I use the pins to keep the parts in alignment until the glue has dried.  This allows me to use a slower drying glue, such as the Elmer’s Wood Glue – which gives me plenty of time to make sure that the parts are aligned to match the template.

The next step was to lay out the stringers, on which the frames will be glued.  I also added the cross bracing to one side at the same time, after allowing them time to dry I can use a hobby knife or razor blade to remove the frames from the wax paper after I have removed the pins.  The wax paper makes this relatively easy.  I then glue the cross bracing on the opposite side.

The next step is to glue the frames into place on the stringers, using pins as needed for support.

Once the part has dried I can remove the completed assembly from the cork board by removing all of the pins and then using the hobby knife as needed.  The final cross bracing and deck can then be put on.

After adding the long expanse of the ice dock on the Union Ice Company kit, I decided that I was going to extend the dock in a “T” shape to meet the building instead of just installing a ramp for the ice.  I used the template for the original ice dock to create the needed parts, though I ended up using slightly smaller material (what the hobby shop had available).

Here is a picture showing the end of the existing dock, which I added a Plastruct stairway and railings as the wood looked too “cluncky”.

I then assembled the filler piece for the dock on the cork board and inserted the completed piece into the gap, using a bottle of paint as a weight to assist in gluing the piece into place:

Here is the completed addition to the dock, waiting for the ice ramp and railings to be installed.  My logic behind making the change in the ice dock was to make it so that if a block was stuck, the workers would be able to walk over and fix the problem without needing a ladder.  Also I added a small ladder going up from that level to the shorter section of the roof, which I will show in a later post.

For the ice loading dock for the Union Ice Company kit I followed the directions for the most part.  The only change that I made was to make the bracing the same for middle uprights as the ends.  I did not like how the small supports recommended in the kit looked after building the first upright.  I used additional scale lumber from Northwest Short Line to provide the needed material.

The second picture shows how I used a cork board and pins to build the ice loading platform right on top of the instructions, which are covered by wax paper.  This technique allowed me to use the pins to secure each piece into the correct place while I was waiting for the glue to dry.

This picture shows how used bottles of paint as weight to glue the completed platform into place.

I recently purchased a very useful tool at my local hobby shop.  The Chopper II, made by Northwest Short Line, is a device for cutting scale lumber.  By using a rigid blade on a pivot it allows you to make straight cuts on scale lumber up to 1/4″.  This version has a self healing mat on the cutting surface, which should add considerable life to the tool.

By using the stops that come with it making duplicate cuts is very easy, allowing for large numbers of identical pieces to be cut quickly.

• Overall: 10
• Provided parts: 10
• Instructions: 10
• Value for price: 9
• Overall quality: 10

Here the various sub assemblies are put together on the base I cut out of scrap plywood.  In this picture you can see that I have constructed and installed the front dock and the back porch, the only major change I made was in putting another ramp on the near end of the dock.  I have yet to finish weathering the back porch.  The dock was weathered using various pastel chalks, similar to what I did on the floor of the building.

Also in this picture is the foundation which the office rests on.  For the desired effect I started with a dark gray and dry-brushed two lighter colors of gray on top.  I touched up the highlights with a final light dry-brush of white.

This picture shows the front view, a little bit further on.  Notice that I have put some of the doors in place, and the cardstock for the roof.  In hindsight it would have probably been better to build the sub roof using scale lumber, as you can see the edges of the cardstock under the corrugated metal roofing.  I set the side door part way open, with someone standing in it to add life to the building.